Le menu sur la gauche contient deux sections: Une partie qui concerne l'objet 3D avec la taille de l'objet principalement Une partie qui concerne le type de "construction" Construction Technique C'est cette deuxième partie qui va nous intéresser ici Important! Si cela semble étrange dans le mode "Stacked slices", c'est nettement plus visible avec le mode "Interlocked Slices". Pour remédier à cela, il est possible de bouger une tranche rouge en double-cliquant dessus, puis de la déplacer jusqu'à ce qu'elle ne soit plus problématique.
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|Système d’exploitation:||Android. Windows XP/7/10. iOS. MacOS.|
So you can use whatever camera you have on hand whether it's a compact camera with a zoom, or if it's your cellphone camera.
Both work great. The most important part of taking that set of photographs is to get everything in focus, and to not change anything about the lighting, anything about the background, or even anything about your zoom. The object has to remain as static as possible and something you might not think about intuitively is that when you zoom in and out with the camera.
The way that those lenses are moving forward and back from each other to zoom in, actually changes the shape of the object as far as the camera is concerned.
Cellphone cameras have a neat trick that allow them to be actually really useful for this process. Is that it's important for everything to be in focus, and cellphone cameras have such a small sensor and such a small set of lenses that they're sort of built to always get everything in focus. You can use these photographs in a lot of different types of software.
So if you can just look up photogrammetry software, I'll show you, the one I'm familiar with is Agisoft. Autodesk also provides a D Catch. So I prefer to just take all the pictures first and then decide what software I want to use later. So my strategy is to kind of of pick one side to start off with. Start off with a kind of top down view. You want to fill a lot of the frame with the object.
If I was to fill the entire frame, then I would actually run into some of it being blurry and some of it being sharp, so I do want to get to a range where the entire object is in focus, so this looks pretty good.
So I'll start from top down and the shooting strategy actually works really well if you think of the way that humans do depth sensing, we've got our two eyeballs, a certain distance apart, and that helps us do depth perception. So when I shoot this raspberry tart, I'm going to take one picture, shift the camera like just an inch to the right and take another picture.
And so those are called binocular photographs.
Sort of taking one picture right after the other to have a binocular set. So it will really help the computer determine what photographs go together, and just give a little bit of depth to each set of photographs. Putting this into 60 degree increments, so you just take one, two, three, four, five, six.
If you just imagine a hexagon, that's a pretty good results. If you want to get a really high resolution, then you can do like 10 degree increments, and do, that'd be 36 angles.
And the more you do that, the higher resolution you can get, but I will also greatly increase the processing time. So once we take all these photographs, we have to look at the computer, chew in all that data.
The more pictures you take, the longer it will take the process. The camera at one point or another sees every surface that's a part of this. So this berries are really funny shapes that have a lot of different sides, I want to even get a little bit underneath them so that the camera can see the underneath the bottom part of these berries.
Picture there, shift the camera a little bit, picture there. It might be tempting to rotate the object but while that worked with some of the automatic 3D scanning. Especially, the connect can deal with objects spinning around.
With photogrammetry it uses the object itself, but will it'll also will use background information to match photographs. So you want to keep the entire scene as static as possible. So I can go to my photos and just show kind of what that entire photo set looked like.
Dozens and dozens of pictures of this object from every angle. We can take these photographs and pump them through our choice of software. I'll be demonstrating Agisoft PhotoScan, which is a free to try software.
You can download the demo and for 30 days, it's unrestricted. You can try it out with whatever you want. Another interesting option, probably the easiest option, you just download the app and start shooting is called D Catch. So, it's an AutoDesk product and it runs on Android and iOS and all that, so I'll demonstrate how automatic it is because it is a little bit more trouble free.
The software walks you through it so I definitely recommend trying it out and if we take a look at it we can kind of see that here, this shows me where I am in space. So it's using my accelerometer to kind of track my phone. And so if I set it from the side it kind of switches to this set of photographs. So all these little boxes are demonstrating photographs that you should take. And the blue are photographs that I've already taken.
So I'll shift it here it says I need to take a photograph from this angle.
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Il convient de souligner qu'il peut nous arriver de ne pas détecter un logiciel potentiellement malveillant.